Shiraz is the capital of Fars Province – Persia proper, the historic heartland of Iran. It has earned popular renown as the city of gardens and poetry, of roses and nightingales.  

Shiraz, however, is not a very ancient city by Iranian standards. It was founded in 68 AD by the Arab conquerors of Iran, as a new capital of Fars Province to replace the earlier, Sasanian, one of Istakhr near Persepolis. In the 10^th century Shiraz was made the capital of Iran by the Buyid dynasty. The Buyids, a Persian dynasty, were nominally governors under the Abbasid caliphs in Baghdad, but in practice became largely independent. From their capital in Shiraz they were one of the first dynasties following the Arab conquest to encourage a Persian renaissance: the language and the arts were encouraged, the pre-Islamic religion of Zoroastrianism was revived, and one of the Buyid rulers even proclaimed himself Shahanshah or King of Kings, the ancient Persian royal title. The Buyids were eventually replaced as rulers in Iran by the Seljuk Turks and the capital moved elsewhere, but Shiraz remained a center for the Persian language, poetry and learning generally during the ensuing centuries, particularly with such famous poets as Sa’adi in the 13^th century and Hafez, probably the greatest of all Persian poets, in the 14^th century.

"Tomb of Hafez"

"Vakil Bazaar" Shiraz

For the best impression of a traditional private Shiraz town house and garden one can visit the 19^th century Narenjestan in the middle of the town. This magnificent house and garden, originally belonging to a wealthy Shirazi merchant family, is most noteworthy for its rock reliefs in imitation of Persepolis and the fine marquetry and mirror work decoration of the interior. It was beautifully restored and used as a headquarters by the Asia Institute under Professor Arthur Upham Pope, the American art Historian whose tomb in Isfahan is still maintained by the Iranian government.

There are a few earlier monuments in Shiraz that have survived as well. The oldest is the Friday Mosque or Atiqh Mosque, built in 1351 though probably incorporating older structures. Its most curious feature is the Khoda Khaneh or “God House”, a square stone building in the middle of the courtyard, originally built to house Korans read in the mosque. Not far away is the Masjid-e Nau or New Mosque begun in 1600, most notable for its lovely spacious courtyard – the largest in Iran – surrounded by low arcades. Between the two mosques is Shiraz’s most familiar monument, the Mausoleum of Shah Cheragh with its distinctive, glazed bulbous onion dome a landmark on the skyline. It dates from the 19^th and 20^th centuries and is a popular place of pilgrimage, commemorating a famous 9^th century saint (the brother of Imam Reza whose shrine is in Mashad). The main buildings from Karim Khan’s remarkable reign are the great tiled Vakil Mosque in the bazaar and the imperative brick citadel in the center of the town, currently being restored as a museum. The bazaar itself also dates from Karim Khan’s reign, and is one of the best and most colourful in Iran – and the country’s main center for tribal rugs.